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The West Elk Loop: Colorado's Best-Kept Cycling Secret
Drea Knufken for Rocky Mountain Sports, October 2007
Golden aspen and empty roads make the West Elk Loop the perfect fall biking destination
Watching aspen change color from a car is one thing. Watching them turn on two wheels, so close that you can touch them, is a different story altogether. Along the Western Slope's 205-mile West Elk Loop, roadies and mountain bikers alike can find Eden-like terrain without worrying about cars or crowds. The route, which embraces the White River, Grand Mesa, and Gunnison National Forests, is especially phenomenal in October, when moderate temperatures and deep-gold aspen make for prime riding. Roadies will savor the route's steep climbs, meditative scenery, and empty stretches. Mountain bikers can ride thousands of acres of wilderness.
To add to the scenery, fascinating historical sites sit by the side of almost every road or trail. From the beehive-like Redstone coke ovens to Marble, where a local mine coughed up stone slabs included in the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, D.C., relics from the past contrast nicely with the rich scenery here. And that's not to mention the entire town of Crested Butte, where mountain biking was founded.
The rides below include easy and more challenging rides for roadies and mountain bikers, as well as an epic aspen ride.
Getting here: Follow I-70 to the easternmost Glenwood Springs exit. Follow CO Hwy. 82 to Carbondale, then follow signs to CO Hwy. 133 and the West Elk Loop.
Road Rides
Easier: The Carbondale--El Jebel Loop:
This 14.4-mile, country-style cruise makes for an ideal family ride. The terrain is paved and flat, and the ride scenic. First, you follow a straight piece of road runs past rodeo grounds and cattle ranches. You then cross a bridge over the Roaring Fork River to the Catherine Store, a convenience store where you can buy refreshments and snacks. Follow Valley Road, a frontage road to Highway 82, to El Jebel. From here, loop back to downtown Carbondale.
Miles: 14.4
Elevation gain: negligible
Directions: Park in downtown Carbondale. Ride east down Main Street, which becomes Catherine Store Road.
More Challenging: CO Hwy 92 to Crystal River
Route 92 past the Blue Mesa and Curecanti Reservoirs is a roadie classic. The narrow, cliff-hugging climbs offers astounding views of the reservoirs, which resemble Norwegian fjords, as well as bucolic ranches, the dark, distant peaks of the San Juans and thick aspen groves.
Park at the Blue Mesa reservoir parking lot. From there, cross over Blue Mesa Dam and start your climb. Follow several gentle switchbacks into ever-improving views of the Gunnison Gorge. Next, the climb pulls you north, where cattle graze lazily by the road, then south again, towards jaw-dropping views of the finger-like Morrow Point Reservoir. The grade increases proportionally to the view. Take a breather at Hermit's Rest, then climb to the 8,600-foot Morrow Point. Next, a rolling descent takes you through some serious aspen groves. Turn around at Crystal Creek.
Miles: 62
Elevation gain: 1,081 feet
Directions: From Montrose, take CO Hwy 50 east to the Curecanti National Recreation Area. It intersects with CO Hwy 92 at Blue Mesa Reservoir. Park here. If you're coming from the Black Canyon, go all the way down 92 to Blue Mesa Reservoir.
Mountain Bike Rides
Easier: North Rim of the Black Canyon
Unlike the busy, developed South Rim, the North Rim of the Black Canyon is wild and unpaved, perfect for an easy, scenic mountain bike tour.
Park at the ranger station. Ride the southeast side of North Rim Road, towards Kneeling Camel. The fire road meanders along canyon walls as deep as 2,700 feet. Five viewpoints along the way offer closer glimpses of the silver Gunnison River below. Meander past scrub oak and pinon trees to dead-end at Kneeling Camel, the final viewpoint, where you turn around and head back. To extend your ride, take road out of the park, which is also relatively flat and scenic.
Miles: 6
Elevation gain: Negligable
Directions: To get there from Gunnison, go west on US Hwy 50, then turn right on CO Hwy 92 towards Crawford. Follow the signs to North Rim Road, the 11-mile road into the park.
More Challenging: Trail 401 in Crested Butte
Trail 401 is one of Crested Butte's legendary rides. In a town with mythical mountain biking status, this ride caps them all. Trail 401 begins at the top of the 10,769-foot Schofield Pass. From here, granny gear up a 700 vertical foot climb and turn left at the intersection. Once out of the trees, you'll see Crested Butte's best views of the Maroon Bells.
A mind-blowing descent comes next. Head-high plants, packed dirt singletrack, and strategically placed water bars make this high-velocity descent better than most adult activities. The trail widens at Rustler's Gulch; turn right shortly afterwards and follow signs. They'll lead you to Avery Campground Road. Climb to where the singletrack ends, then head right to the Judd Falls parking lot and Gothic Road. Take a left on Gothic, up one final climb back to Mount Crested Butte. Descend back into town. You will need a beer after this ride.
Miles: 25
Elevation gain: 2,800 feet
Directions: Start in downtown Crested Butte. Ride through town and all the way through the Mount Crested Butte ski area, above which the road turns to gravel. Follow this road for nine miles, past Snodgrass and Gothic, to Schofield Pass. At the top of the pass, follow signs to where the trail starts.
The Ultimate Aspen Ride: Schofield Pass
Schofield Pass is a mostly unpaved, 24-mile ride past rivers, ruins, mountain passes, and aspen groves. Big, loose rocks, pools of water and steep climbs make it challenging. Start in Marble and ride up the grueling 3⁄4 mile Daniels Hill. Turn right towards Crystal where the trail forks. Descend to the Crystal River, your aspen-lined companion for the next four miles. The trees are everywhere you look, all smooth white bark and shaking golden leaves. To your north, the Maroon Bells stretch the horizon upwards, making for a stunning backdrop. Pass the Dead Horse Mill, an old mill precariously balanced on a rock next to a waterfall. It's known as one of the most photographed site in Colorado.
Next, you'll hit the ghost town of Mineral Point. The aspen clear, giving way to a challenging loose-rock ascent. Continue straight at the fork (avoid Lead King Basin), then climb another mile to the Devil's Punchbowl. Big rocks, narrow road and a fast-moving river 300 feet below make this stretch notorious for swallowing up reckless four-wheelers. It's only slightly less harrowing on a bike, but equally stunning.
After glimpsing your fate in the Devil's Punchbowl, cross a river into the blissfully flat high-mountain terrain at Schofield Park. Two miles later, climb up the 10,769-foot Schofield Pass, which deposits you near Emerald Lake and then to the East River in Gothic. The aspen come back now, flanking the wide dirt road in this rugged little town. One final three-mile climb opens up a view of the Crested Butte Ski Area. Your journey ends in a relaxing descent on the paved bike path down into Crested Butte.
Depending on your fitness level, this ride takes up to five hours. Many people choose to stay overnight in Crested Butte and ride back in the morning.
Miles: 38, mostly on Jeep roads
Elevation gain: 1,840 feet
Directions: From CO Hwy 133, take C.R. 3 east into Marble. Park at the bottom of Daniels Hill at the south side of town. If you can't find parking here, try Beaver Lake or the Marble Millsite Park.
Sidebar:
Come Prepared
To maximize your ride, stock up on spare tubes, power food like Gu or Clif bars, water and a waterproof layer in case it rains. If you're left in the cold, bike shops are never far away. Also consider overnighting in one of the area's many hotels to unwind after your ride--and get a new one in tomorrow.
Sidebar:
Nearby Bike Shops:
Hartman Rocks and Highway 92:
Tomichi Cycles
104 North Main Street
Gunnison (970)641-9069
Trail 401:
The Alpineer
419 6th Street
Crested Butte (970)349-5210
Carbondale--El Jebel Loop, Rudei Dam, Schofield Pass:
Ajax Bike Shop
573 Highway 133
Carbondale (970)963-0128
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